First of all, congratulations on the new addition to your household. A new pet is a big responsibility, but will return twice over the love and companionship you provide for many years to come.
The first six months of owning a new cat
can be busy, but is also one of the most rewarding times.
There are a number of issues, both
medically and socially, which occur within this first six month period.
In the following sections I'll do my best
to give an overview, but if you have any questions please contact us any time
and we'll be happy to help.
Feeding
A cat should always be fed a diet suitable
for his or her life stage (kitten, adult or senior).
After being weaned from the mother, which
will happen sometime between 4 to 8 weeks of age, it is recommended to feed a
kitten food.
Diets can either be commercial (available
as dry or canned food from vets, pet stores or supermarkets), or home made.
High quality commercial diets are generally nutritionally complete and
balanced, containing all necessary vitamins and minerals. They are also
generally formulated specifically for the life stage of the cat.
Dry food is nutritionally very similar to
canned food, and is usually more economical, cleaner and encourages better
dental development, however a lot of cats prefer the taste of wet (canned)
food. Many owners feed a combination of the two. The quality of the food is
also important, and there are significant differences between the lower priced
budget food and the premium range of cat food. Calcium should never be
supplemented to a balanced cat diet.
Your new kitten should also be given
occasional treats, such as cat chews or raw chicken wings. Cooked bones can
splinter and should not be fed.
Home-made diets can also be a great choice,
but it can be difficult to formulate a home-made diet that is nutritionally
complete, and liked by cats. Note that plain meat or meat and rice (even with
vitamin supplements) is not a complete or balanced diet. If you decide to feed
solely a home made diet, you should consult a veterinary nutritionist to have a
recipe developed.
Vaccinations for Cats
Vaccination is a very important step in
preventative health. Cats are generally vaccinated with a combination vaccine
at 6-8 weeks, 10-12 weeks and 16 weeks of age. This vaccine covers the most
serious preventable diseases affecting cats – Feline Panleukopaenia (Feline
Parvovirus), Feline Rhinotracheitis and Feline Calicivirus (forms of ‘Cat
Flu’). All kittens should be vaccinated as there is a high incidence of the
above diseases in unvaccinated cats in Hong Kong. This vaccination is continued
annually in adult cats.
Rabies vaccinations are not required for
cats in Hong Kong, but are necessary for cats traveling overseas. There is a
negligible risk of your cat catching rabies in Hong Kong.
Feline Leukaemia is a chronic and
progressively debilitating immunosuppressive disease of cats, and is most
common in stray cats and multi-cat households. Feline Leukaemia is rare in Hong
Kong, and vaccination is rare.
Worming
Kittens should be given a tablet for
intestinal worms at each initial vaccination, and then every 3-6 months as an
adult cat. Control of intestinal worms is important for the health of your cat,
and can in some cases also be important in preventing transmission of worms to
family members.
Fleas and Ticks
Fleas are a significant cause of allergy,
dermatitis and scratching in cats, and can also transmit some species of
intestinal worms. Flea prevention is not essential in all cats, but is highly
recommended in areas with a high flea population or for cats who venture
outside.
Ticks are an 8-legged arthropod that look
somewhat like a large, slow moving flea. Apart from causing irritation and
possible anaemia, ticks often carry Babesia, a microscopic parasite which can
cause Tick Fever. Tick Fever is a life-threatening condition, but is uncommon
in cats in Hong Kong. Ticks are most common in bushy areas, but are present
throughout Hong Kong.
Prevention of Flea &
Ticks:
Please note that flea and
tick shampoos and pyrethrin-based products are generally ineffective, with
resistance being present in up to 75% of fleas, and can be toxic for cats. We
would not recommend using flea and tick shampoos on cats.
Bedding and Housing
Cats should generally have a basket, bed or
den (cage) to which they can retire at night. They should not, however, be
locked in a cage or tied up. The bed should be cleaned regularly and the
blankets washed weekly or whenever dirty. The bed should be kept in a warm,
comfortable and private place, but should also be close to or part of the main
living area in the house.
Litter Tray
Cats should also be provided with a litter
tray. This is generally placed away from the main living area, often in the
bathroom and away from your cat's food and water bowls. A good quality,
clumping litter is usually put in the tray to a depth of around an inch or
more. The tray should be cleared daily of faeces and urine clumps. Cats are
generally very clean and rarely need any toilet training.
Grooming
Cats don't require as much grooming
maintenance as dogs (they generally don't need to be bathed), however they will
require their claws to be cut and if you have a long haired cat, it will
require regular brushing. It will make your life a lot easier if you get your
kitten used to grooming from a young age. Claws should be clipped whenever they
get sharp enough to cause you harm or if your cat is getting stuck on things
when walking around. You might find it easiest to do a couple of claws at a
time, rather than trying to do all 10 in one go. A suitable claw trimmer should
be used. You should also provide your cat with a scratching toy so they have
somewhere suitable to scratch (that will hopefully save your sofa from being
destroyed).
Training
Cats can be quite a challenge to train.
Training to come when called or to respond to commands is often difficult,
although food rewards can often help.
Luckily toilet training is usually
instinctual and doesn’t need to be taught.
Negative reward training (telling a cat off
or smacking a cat) has long been considered outdated and cruel, and generally
results in a poorly trained cat who is scared of their owner.
Training rewards must always be given at
the time of the action – if you reward a cat five minutes later he may have
forgotten exactly what it was he did right.
Desexing
Desexing or neutering involves a surgical
operation, preventing your pet from mating and producing offspring. Desexing
can be performed any time after your cat is six months old. The desexing
operation involves a day visit to the hospital, however your cat will be pretty
much back to their old self by the evening and will usually not need to stay in
hospital overnight.
Desexing is performed for both social and
medical reasons, and if you are not planning on breeding your cat, desexing is
highly recommended.
